What do a sneaker inspired by Kenyan runners and a boot born from the catwalks of Paris have in common?
Hello,
Who would have thought that separating a big toe from the rest of the foot could become such a powerful idea? Certainly Martin Margiela and Tobie Hatfield, respectively founder and creative director until 2009 of Maison Margiela the former, and designer of Nike the latter, were sure of it.
Fashion and sports seem like two distant universes, but sometimes they meet on surprising ground.
Such is the case with Maison Margiela’s Tabi and Nike’s Air Rift, two revolutionary shoes united by a bold feature: the split toe (split-toe).
Although they belong to different worlds, both have defied convention, becoming symbols of innovation in their respective fields.
Margiela’s Tabi debuted at the fashion house’s first show, in 1988, in a simple, sparsely furnished room in Paris, with the soles dipped in red patent leather to leave the shape of the on the runway.
Inspired by the Japanese Jika-tabi, the classic Japanese work boots, these shoes embody the designer’s philosophy: deconstruction and reworking of tradition.
The split toe is not just an aesthetic element, but a cultural reminder and a symbol of nonconformity.
Margiela’s aim was precisely to deconstruct, through this pattern, conventional fashion and celebrate cultural functionalism.
The huge success of Tabi, did not happen immediately. Western consumers had never seen a shoe with a split toe, whose footprints looked like a cross between those of a man and a goat. In the early days, Martin Margiela, given the low budget for producing new shoe models, repainted old unsold Tabi models, reintroducing them on the catwalk the following season. This contributed to the wide range of offerings that Tabi has to this day.
From ankle boots to ballet flats to loafers.
The Nike Air Rift, on the other hand, were born out of an ambition to improve sports performance. Born in 1996 and inspired by the barefoot runners of Kenya, famous precisely for their speed and sporting efficiency, their design aims to replicate the natural biomechanics of the foot, offering stability and control thanks to the separation of the big toe. The name is also a tribute to Kenya, in fact it originates from the Great Rift Valley, just like the first model presented, which echoed the flag of the African state.
Again, the split toe is much more than a stylistic choice: it is a functional solution.
The velcro closure makes them very easy to wear, the material can range from leather to mesh, and the colors are the classic ones (black, white, red, and powder pink).
Despite the purely athletic purpose, great at the advent of the streetwear style of the early 2000s’, Nike Air Rift have caught on as the signature shoe of street style.
Although they are often considered, by those less knowledgeable about the subject, to be the cheap version of Margiela’s Tabi, their construction characteristics, their use, and especially their combination within everyday wear, are completely different from the Tabi.
And now, the philosophical-reflexive educational part (I hope).
The fame of the spit-toe has not always been at the highest level as it is these days. Going back to Tabi for a moment, years ago, they were the quintessential niche shoe, worn by fashion and art students, who saw inside the shoe, their non conformist and anti-conventional philosophy. Just like Margiela’s.
The spilt-toe spoke only to the split-toe, it was a closed niche whose entrance was decided with a sharp line, the one between thumb and forefinger.
People who decided to buy a split-toe shoe model did so in order to distance themselves from the mass of people who wore the usual two pairs of shoes, to receive dirty looks, on vehicles or on the street, from people who despised and did not understand what l*i was wearing, and were sorry about it.
In the present day, the split toe is in the public domain, most people have a split toe shoe or covet them, celebrities, trend icons, such as Zendaya, Kylie Jenner and Due Lipa, have and sport an endless collection of them.
If only they were always available and affordable to everyone, every citizen of this globe is very likely to have a pair in their shoe rack.
This is not good at all, as trends stew and make things lose value.
The object of nonconformity and symbol of stylish sophistication is now at the feet of all those who see split-toe as the trend of the moment or a way to pose as who knows who.
All things considered…in the eyes of anyone, they are just two pairs of shoes for working in the fields, for runners or for Japanese ninjas; for fashion nerds, like me, like us, they are two pieces of design, so much to be featured in exhibitions and displays.
But also as an everyday design object, inside homes, in the form of any object, like a vase.
Kisses, Alisia <3
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